Made-to-Measure Latex: Why a Full Measurement Set Matters

I use a pattern drafting method adapted from the Müller & Sohn system, specifically developed for latex garments. I’m old-fashioned, so I draft on paper with a pencil (this has some advantages over software, but I won’t get into that here). The complete system uses 76 measured body dimensions for a catsuit, and 22 head measurements for a hood. Naturally, this includes control measurements used for verification, but the magnitude of the number is accurate. Why so many? Everyone has a different body type, but they all agree on one thing: the catsuit must be form-fitting, yet comfortable at the same time.

If a client provides their clothing size – say, 48 (XL) – along with their height, the garment can naturally be made using standard size charts (with height-appropriate adjustments. Important note: if you aren’t asked for your height when ordering ready-to-wear, you should probably steer clear of it).

Yes, I have complete male and female standard size charts for all 76 measurements (covering women’s sizes 32-58 and men’s 44-64 according to German/Hungarian sizing). Why don’t I like using them? Well, latex garments don’t know the concept of “wearing ease,” which in traditional clothing often serves as a graveyard for tailoring mistakes. A standard-sized garment might look nice, but we know latex isn’t as forgiving as a loose cotton t-shirt or hyper-elastic elastane; for this reason, latex will certainly reveal exactly where our body deviates from the average.

I have a reduced measurement chart consisting of 16 measurements. Does this mean the suit is made based on just 16 measurements? Of course not. I fill in the missing 60 measurements. From where? Naturally, just like everyone else, from the standard size charts. However, I have years’ worth of measurements I’ve taken myself, based on which we can calculate statistical distributions and perform other kinds of magic (I’m not the smart one here, my younger son is a mathematician). Consequently, beyond my standard size charts, I have a database that outputs the remaining measurements that best fit those initial 16, resulting in a so-called “corrected” measurement set, which is much better than the standard one. I designed this system specifically so that taking measurements is easy and stress-free, while my background system does the heavy lifting, ensuring we make the fewest compromises regarding the fit.

In various pattern drafting systems, there are certain calculated measurements derived from actual taken measurements using specific formulas. It’s important to note that the margin of error for these calculated measurements is just as large, if not larger, than that of standard ready-to-wear sizes, however, this uncertainty remains hidden because we don’t know exactly where and by how much the person deviates from the average, or where a mistake was made when taking the base measurements.

That last point is quite important: an incorrectly taken set of measurements, even if it covers every single dimension, can yield poor results (which is why the aforementioned control measurements exist to mitigate this).

In short.

Do you need 76 measurements for a catsuit?
No, but the fewer measurements you have to submit, the more the remaining ones are either taken from standard size charts, calculated from measured data, or simply hidden within the drafting methodology (this is why there are systems that generate patterns from far fewer data points). From a professional standpoint, around 50 measurements is what you need to make a truly nice catsuit. When I take the measurements myself, I rarely take all 76, because I can see with my own eyes what the client looks like (this is also why it’s highly useful, if not strictly required, for clients to send a photo of themselves in swimwear).

Is a suit made with 16 measurements considered “made-to-measure”?
Partially. It’s better than pure ready-to-wear, but when supplementing missing measurements from standard size charts, even with 25 measurements, it can still be considered more of a refined standard size.

Are standard (ready-to-wear) sizes bad, then?
Not at all. There are cuts (like t-shirts or looser fits) where they work perfectly well, and there are people whose body types happen to fit standard sizing quite nicely.

Even shorter.
The fewer actual measurements taken, the more measurements are compensated for from elsewhere.